NorgeGT clutch replacement.

[theoneandonlymin]

I've done a quick search here but not found anything.

Just looking at my NorgeGT with view to replacing the clutch. It's at 65000 miles and making a lot of noise. I'd rather get in there for a look/ replacement after a close call with my Stelvio where a spring was making an escape and rubbing on the gearbox.

So, having done the Stelvio it looks easier to remove and replace the engine/ gearbox.
What pitfalls will I encounter ?



Cheers

[guzzisteve]

Pretty much just like Stelvio cept airbox is on top not behind. Still has to come completely out.

[theoneandonlymin]

OK thanks, the Stelvio had 3 seized lower bolts into the engine. Which had to be drilled out. Doesn't appear to be similar attachments on NorgeGT.

Here's my close encounter of the Stelvio clutch...





Cheers

[blackcat]

Ugh, this doesn't look like a fun job but could you post as much as you can during this project? I have about that many miles on my Norge so it maybe something I'd have to face some day. Thanks and good luck.

[theoneandonlymin]

Fun, ha, it's always fun.
Sometimes a challenge.
At least I've had a recent wee bit of practice. The A frame is still in place.
Read this....


https://www.guzziriders.org/stelvio-no-starty_topic15376.html

Cheer.

[red stripeguz]

Ugh, this doesn't look like a fun job but could you post as much as you can during this project? I have about that many miles on my Norge so it maybe something I'd have to face some day. Thanks and good luck.

What he said. I'd love a write-up on this

[guzzisteve]

There may be a guide photo thing over on the Griso Ghetto but that would be a Griso.

[theoneandonlymin]

So I've done a wee bit more today, I've had it apart this far before so it was relatively straight forward.

I generally take photos to remind me where everything sits when it comes to the 1000 piece jigsaw.










See y'all in a few weeks as I'm heading off.

Cheers

[theoneandonlymin]

Here's the latest update.
Removed the throttle complete from the heads which looked the simplest way. Plenty of space.




Put it up on the engine stand which allowed me to remove centre stand and exhaust.

Next trauma from experience was going to be the side stand bolts, one in the crankcase and the other in the gearbox. These were a nightmare on my Stelvio. But cracked off ezpz.

[theoneandonlymin]

So here y'all are, another exciting instalment from the bench.
I'd previously replaced/ serviced the linkage last year when I bought it and knew the swinging arm bearings would be like this.
Also I'd be doing my clutch so left them.

I've an A frame in my workshop from previously working on my Stelvio.

So basically get the bench up high, engine on stand , ratchet strap the frame to the A frame, loosen the remaining 3 bolts.
Lower the engine on stand/ lower bench with the engine on it.
Give the frame a bit of a wiggle and it's out.
Gearbox off this afternoon to see what is what.

[theoneandonlymin]

[theoneandonlymin]

So here I am a bit further along.
Photos show what I've done and where I'm at...













So as you can see I've a few leaks.crank seal will be peplace.
Tensioner o ring.
Idler (?) Shaft cover O ring.
How does the cover come up?
Loosen the cover with a soft drift then lever/wiggle up from one end at a time. Thanks Pete.

[moto-uno]

  There should be 2 threaded holes in the rear bearing plate (under the retaining bolts) . If it's anything like the newer 1400's , that cover is actually glued onto the engine cases .
I would seriously heat the engine cases and place ice cubes on the cover before using the 2 threaded bolts to try and loosen the cover . I ended up threading the other bearing cover holes,
they were the right size for a 5/16" or 3/8" coarse tap . I made steel plugs to go in the holes that were level with the engine case ( to prevent the extra bolts used for pulling the cover from damaging the threaded engine cases . It was a real PITA . Good Luck , Peter

[theoneandonlymin]

I'm only talking about the idler shaft , Moto Guzzi, cover. Thank goodness

[theoneandonlymin]

So, it came up with a bit of careful levering, the oring and the oring of the tensioner cap were brittle.
Easily enough replaced (The dowty washers seals on the oil lines were also brittle)





The cap is playing hard to replace due to the shaft being lifted by the chain tensioner.