Rollerisation of the 8V.

[guzzisteve]

All this talking(typing) about it, you could have redone it all by now, want to make sure, redo it-  your 1st comeback. Good Luck w/it

[jim mac]

Difficult to do it when you are sixty away from the bike Steve. Better to be informed than act like the fool that I was last week

[pete roper]

You may of been lucky.

[lucian]

Jim Mac, Here is a step by step manual on the 8v,  go to Chapter 5 , timing. pages 51 thru 54. Should be able to put things back in order if you follow this. Note the L and R references on the cam sprockets. Early motors used one white dot for left side and two white dots for right side. Should be able to just remove the spark plugs and use a straw or small wood dowel slid into the cylinder to confirm when piston rises to peak of TDC. When you have confirmed TDC, and after removing the flinger plate covers, observe the position of the cam sprocket pin. Should be at bottom in line with the cylinder( not vertically) See page 54. and in the correct hole in the sprocket( L or R )  when in this position the gaps should be present on the valve adjusters. Hope this helps.

http://www.guzzitek.org/documents/moteur/Motor1200_8V_Course_%28GB%29.pdf

PS. It looks like they misprinted the manual regarding the right side. The cam pin should be in the R hole on the right side, not the L as printed. The picture shows it correct though. Good luck

[lucian]

OMG   The seals I have are the same as the originals. Thin and flat on one side with a slight raised rim on the top side. I have the covers with the steel plug tube and o rings. Let me know if these are what your looking for. Doubt I'll need them.

[Wayne Orwig]

OMG   The seals I have are the same as the originals. Thin and flat on one side with a slight raised rim on the top side. I have the covers with the steel plug tube and o rings. Let me know if these are what your looking for. Doubt I'll need them.

The seals that came on mine, and I ordered a few replacements over the years that are identical, are on the left in the photo. A raised lip outside the screw head, and a small rib underneath. The screw head touches the flat rubber, then bottoms out. No real pressure on the rubber grommet.
The ones on the right are what came in kit C. The molded ridge, top and bottom, touches, then the screw goes almost a full turn, before it bottoms out. A good amount of pressure.
I just adjusted the valves, and I just oiled my Aerostitch on a long trip. So the left leg is extra waterproof now. 
I have tossed the old ones and now only have the ones from the kit in place. I would like to have spares, since I have had bad luck with them. If I can just figure out the part numbers for them.

[lucian]

My C kit came with the old style like the ones you show on the left. Any way, even my original ones that have been re used on many valve checks are still sealing fine. Next time I go over to Seacoast I'll ask if they have the new type. Maybe two weekends from now I'll make the trip and report back.

[guzzisteve]

Jim,  I'm 62 and still screwing up once in a while. Got 2 roller jobs waiting now but I can't work every day. Just reading about it was getting to me.  If you got the kit installed yourself you'll surely be able to sort it fine.

[jim mac]

Steve,  ditto on the 62 and screwing up.  if i can get it running myself then i will be a winner, if it needs to go to someone who actually knows what he is doing then he will but at least one way or the other it will get fixed - just need to find the cash if it is option two !

[jim mac]

OMG   The seals I have are the same as the originals. Thin and flat on one side with a slight raised rim on the top side. I have the covers with the steel plug tube and o rings. Let me know if these are what your looking for. Doubt I'll need them.

thanks for the link Lucian, very helpful.  my sprockets have clear L and R markings and i use the straw down the plug hole method.  i have set the gaps successfully on too many past occasions to count. it was screwing up on the '6 o'clock' that got me i think.  moral so far - when you are going to do a bit of work lock the garage door and dont let people constantly interrupt you.

[steffen]

My 2010 Griso with 20.000 km on the clock was due for service. I asked my mec to tear of the cams for inspection, although he thought it was a waste of time and money, because my valves was on spec and sounding fine.
This is what I saw




Now photos are send to the factory, hopefully they will accept the claim, but soon I'll have the rollers on.

I'd like to thank those of you, that insisted, that the flat tappets was doomed, Pete, Molly, Pauldaytona, Beetle to name a few... 

[jim mac]

i went back to step one, starting with left side.  made sure stud was set to 6 'o'clock proper and valves set on TDC compression.  over to right, adjusted the stud to same.  turned it over loads of times by hand and rechecked the TDC and valves every second cycle - all ok.  decided to take the chance and pushed the button - fiired up first time, settled into smooth running after a couple of seconds, left it to warm up, blipped the throttle lightly - all ok.  Hurrah !

glad the chains hadn't moved and all back in order.   i will now drop the sump and clean out sump and flush through before refilling with liquid gold and new filter.  then it's just a matter of putting all the panels back on.

hope it's fine now, thanks to all for help and advice - lesson learned, follow the instructions from those who know better to the letter, if in doubt ask, and dont let wife and kids constantly interrupt when trying to do anything more complicated than washing the bike.

[pete roper]

F*cking Golden! As I've said before, it's not a collision motor unless you do something really dumb or the entire engine is f*cked!

Pete

[lucian]

Glad to hear it! Good going. Don,t forget to put the rubber stopper back on the vacuum port. 

[lucian]

My 2010 Griso with 20.000 km on the clock was due for service. I asked my mec to tear of the cams for inspection, although he thought it was a waste of time and money, because my valves was on spec and sounding fine.
This is what I saw




Now photos are send to the factory, hopefully they will accept the claim, but soon I'll have the rollers on.

I'd like to thank those of you, that insisted, that the flat tappets was doomed, Pete, Molly, Pauldaytona, Beetle to name a few... 

It looks like you caught it early . Was it worse on the left side than the right?

[jim mac]

i set the left up and then had to move the right sprocket about two teeth to get it to line up with stud

when i pulled the original tappets the left was much more worn than right

[steffen]

It looks like you caught it early . Was it worse on the left side than the right?

I hope so.
I only took one picture, but as I recall, it was same-same.

[Chuck in Indiana]

if in doubt ask, and dont let wife and kids constantly interrupt

Ahhh, you have learned well, grasshopper.  When I'm fooling with something as important as timing, I pay serious attention. Disaster avoided. 

[jim mac]

yes, if you are going to ask other people for help or advice you should at least be prepared to fully listen (or read) the comments.   i didn't - my fault, could have been worse, glad it wasnt,   just missed a week of great weather here, which is unusual to say the least

[MGrego]

i went back to step one, starting with left side.  made sure stud was set to 6 'o'clock proper and valves set on TDC compression.  over to right, adjusted the stud to same.  turned it over loads of times by hand and rechecked the TDC and valves every second cycle - all ok.  decided to take the chance and pushed the button - fiired up first time, settled into smooth running after a couple of seconds, left it to warm up, blipped the throttle lightly - all ok.  Hurrah !

Glad you got it running without too much trouble !!  Good Job !!

[jim mac]

Big problem nowis getting the sump dropped, bloody thing just wont seperate. 14 bolts out, cant find any hidden ones like the Cali but dont want to use firce - what am I missing ?

[lucian]

Big problem nowis getting the sump dropped, bloody thing just wont seperate. 14 bolts out, cant find any hidden ones like the Cali but dont want to use firce - what am I missing ?

Easy does it ,there are also bolts in the center around the Oil filter area.

[jim mac]

Same as the Cali? The parts diagram i have only shows the 14 on outside.  I dont have a bench so am lying on the floor - cant get my head under

Just had a look at the Stein Dinse catalogue and see they list 4 other bolts.  Are they inside the filkter hole ?

[pete roper]

Run your finger around the filter pocket, you'll feel the recesses, the bolts are at the bottom of them.

Pete

[katanaman]

Good day gents, I am wondering if there is any way to tell which kit I need without having access to the bike. I have a 2011/2012 Stelvio, orange one with cast wheels (not NTX). from memory last time I had the rocker cover off I had no separate tube for the spark plug hole and just a flat washer type seal between the spark plug hole and the rocker cover. I have been told about a separate tube with Oring seals but mine does not have this.

My bike is in a remote part of Western Australia and I am in PNG so I cant look for the small dimple on the head, or anything else  I was hoping to order one of the kits ASAP to be sent to where the bike is and I will install once I get there in about 4 weeks, but I do not want to order the wrong kit. from what I have read I would need a KIT A.... ???

I will try to get the engine or VIN number tomorrow from some paperwork back in Australia but right now I don't have much to go on. if there is any other way to tell

inside my rocker cover looks the same as this picture I got from another post

[pete roper]

Yup, it'll be an 'A' kit. All the models with the 'Floating' rocker covers, that is the ones with the short tube and thick neoprene gasket between the cambox casting and cover are 'A' kits apart from late model 1200 Sports which require the 'D' kit.

That pic confirms what I said on the phone.

Pete

[katanaman]

perfect, i was having a couple of doubts due to the dimple marking posts i read, information overload maybe. i will email you this afternoon or tomorrow to order the kit. i will photograph and document everything to try to claim the warranty if i find the wear on the tappets but i just don't have the luxury of waiting for that whole process to play out?
is there any way to ensure the kit is available in the 4 week time frame that i have?

[pete roper]

perfect, i was having a couple of doubts due to the dimple marking posts i read, information overload maybe. i will email you this afternoon or tomorrow to order the kit. i will photograph and document everything to try to claim the warranty if i find the wear on the tappets but i just don't have the luxury of waiting for that whole process to play out?
is there any way to ensure the kit is available in the 4 week time frame that i have?

I was just speaking to Peter Hill about your mate Justin's bike. Peter seems to think it's an '09 model? If that's the case it will need a 'C' kit not a 'D' kit. I've texted Peter some pics of the two rocker covers so he can confirm with Justin whether his is a 'C' or 'D' bike. If it's a 'C' that frees up my 'D' kit which is essentially an 'A' kit with head gaskets which you won't need. I can fling an 'A' kit together for you and have it on its way to Karathur by the weekend if neccessary. You'll need sump gasket and a filter too. I have them to hand as well.

Pete

[katanaman]

Bloody great news,  I am good for a filter as I have that already for an oil change scheduled before I  leave Karratha but a sump gasket will be much appreciated.

I will call tomorrow to arrange the finer details.  after I have done the job should I be loading up a new improved map to go with the new cams?

[pete roper]

Yup, if you're running one of Mark's maps there is a roller version. This is a twin Lambda big tank model yes? With ABS I assume? John, (Xltra here I believe?) also has a very good 2L map that if you ask nicely he'll probably share with you.

I'm going to be on a plane flying back east tomorrow. Don't get back home until after 6.00PM so it might be better to email me or wait until Thursday to nut out the details. I'll have to bill you for the kit but if the claim is approved I'll reimburse you the full amount.

Pete