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« Last post by Ncdan on December 04, 2025, 08:17:03 AM »
You sir, have a terrific sense of humor. Well done, well done indeed.
I’m afraid my good friend down under may be under the influence of fermented kangaroo piss again🤣
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« Last post by PeteS on December 04, 2025, 07:53:50 AM »
Good answer Bulldog, not to the question I posed, but good answer.
No one is going to try to understand my point…
No one.
The concern is not how well or otherwise you can make the shift…..Does everyone get that ?
It is what the dogs are being asked to do when they engage, absolutely sweet bugger all to to with “technique”. Donald Duck could shift the gear and the dogs would still have the same task to perform.
As an aside, when you blip the throttle, is that on an upshift or downshift ?
On an upshift, what is the process you do for the blip and when you blip for the downshift, what do you do then ?
Can you detail what you do with the throttle for each ?
That is your hand, not foot.
I doubt you will get an answer here. It appears the only group that might help are road racers who use quick shifters all the time. We have learned that apparently no one has put one on a V85 yet which was the original question, and the only Guzzis that have them are a few V100s. I doubt any of those have had their gearboxes opened up yet. Add to that there are as many gearbox designs as their are bikes. So while most of us actually understand the question, few have the answer. Pete
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« Last post by SIR REAL ED on December 04, 2025, 07:00:19 AM »
Lightly preload the shift lever up or down.............. blip the throttle gear shifts smoothly, then back on the throttle. As I said before, the CARC big blocks are the toughest to make smooth, but it is doable.
There you are folks! That's the technique! Works for motorcycles, dump trucks, and pick up trucks. Operator skill and mechanical sensitivity is required, other wise, stick with using the clutch!!
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« Last post by SIR REAL ED on December 04, 2025, 06:50:22 AM »
I asked the same question at the end of my response also and even though I do it quite frequently I don’t have a reasonable explanation. Possibly because on my bike it’s always just so smooth and trouble free. I don’t have to move anything except my left foot about a 1/4”.
In my case maybe just to lazy to move more body parts than necessary 🤔🤣
Give yourself some credit Dan, some day you might need that minute amount of movement in your left hand and luckily, that hand will work like brand new.
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« Last post by SIR REAL ED on December 04, 2025, 06:48:37 AM »
The last few responses are very encouraging, because at least they acknowledge that there are factors at play that deserve addressing.
Yellowduck says that he has done this practice over many years on multiple bikes.
This I suggest is where the problem resides…
It is not an issue where you do it on many bikes over a number of years, because each bike has a (relatively) minimal exposure to the torture, it’s when you do it on one bike over many years.
The potential damage is cumulative.
I do like the post that talks about the time between disengagement and engagement of the next gear, as when the alteration of the flywheel rpm must occur.
This is what I’ve been banging on about all along.
It is the almost total lack of cushioning of the shock through the gear train when the new gear is slammed home, that I suggest is the source of the potential damage or wear.
This is over tens of thousands of cycles.
Now y’all may say that there is cushioning in the springs within the clutch body that “soaks up” the shock.
Garbage…
Those springs compress about 4 mm maximum before they coil bind, that is going to be around 3 or 4 degrees of crankshaft rotation and at 3,000 rpm (50 revs per second), y’all can do the math and tell me how long it takes to rotate 4 degrees at those rpm..
It comes down to thousandths of a second..
You can safely call it zero time that you are smashing those revs down or up. Deceleration shock is the same as accelleration shock, it is a cruel force that is instantaneously applied either way and the energy has to go somewhere.
Imagine you have a flywheel of equal mass in a test rig and it’s rotating at 3,000 rpm, you have a one metre lever on the supporting shaft to which you can apply an instant brake so as to drop those revs by 1,000 in less than 0.1 seconds.
How much force will that apply to the end of your one metre lever ?
A shitload would be an acccurate assessment and that is over ONE metre, now consider the RADIUS of your gear in the ‘box..
It’s about 25 mm, so that force that you felt on the end of the one metre lever in the test rig, can be multiplied by 40, because torque is force x distance.
This my friends, is what you are asking your gearbox to endure, many many tens of thousands of times in it’s life, just so you can “save yourself the trouble” of “pulling in the clutch….” 
I’ll leave y’all with the elephant in the room question regarding changing without the clutch…..Why ?
The trick is to release the load on the drivetrain, which is the purpose of hitting the kill switch or blipping the throttle. If you don't release the load, it will not be a smooth shift. Just like switching from 4WD back to 2WD in a truck. No need to be in neutral just punch it and shift between the "acceleration" and the "engine braking" mode. My Dad's construction company had lots of beat up old vehicles that needed more maintenance than they got. One driver shifted a truck so smoothly, that was notorious for shifting poorly. "George, how are you getting that useless POS to shift so smoothly?" "I either don't use the clutch at all, or I double clutch it! Plus you need to rev it up a bit between gears. As long as the transmission shaft is spinning the same speed when you leave one gear and enter the next gear, it will engage smoothly." I've been in the cab with him when he was driving that hunk of junk, and he was not lying. He made shifting without the clutch smooth and effortless.
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« Last post by SIR REAL ED on December 04, 2025, 06:28:32 AM »
Still working….great fun pulling it out in a crowd to see the reaction
When I got a ‘new’ one i made sure it was several generations behind the times. I think Apple was releasing iphone 12 and I bought a new 6….the woman behind the counter said, “now that old one has everything except a telephone.” Then I realized I hardly ever use a phone anymore….duh! Why am i paying for “phone” to not use it? Text works better for me
I’m like that after seeing digital cameras in the professional field get a new version every 6 months. The old ones still worked to their limit but got eclipsed by marketing
My daughter insisted I get an Otterbox to protect the new one…works a treat
You could at least wrap that thing in Saran Wrap so you would not look like a cheap SOB, If you flip that phone over, does it have a Moto Guzzi badge on the back side? Just wondering.
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« Last post by SIR REAL ED on December 04, 2025, 06:14:02 AM »
Yup, when you pull a plug wire on a running engine the energy has to go somewhere. When it arcs across the insulating material it turns a bit of it into carbon. This makes the path easier to follow each subsequent time. Eventually you end up burning an alternate path into the insulating material.
Safe way to isolate cylinders for diagnosis is putting a bare metal extender on the plug top and connecting the plug wire to the top of the extender. When you want to disable a cylinder you touch the head with an INSULATED handle screwdriver and bring the shaft to rest on the plug extender. Spark shorts to case ground and energy sagely dissipated. I always made plug extenders with the plug screw on top terminal with a long metric screw (head removed) threaded halfway through it. That screws easily on top of plug and plug wire fits the metric screw.
Early sparking systems (R60/2, Ural) had two grounded and pointed tabs that were gapped near the coil outputd so that if a plug wire dropped off the spark would jump from the metal terminal to the point on the grounding tab. Insulation was not so good in the '50s.
Two ground points aimed at HV terminals visible in this photo.
Thanks for the picture. I like that design. The good ole days. My father had a different method for grounding out/isolating a single spark plug. He would make one of his sons hang on to the spark plug in question. If you flinched, he knew that spark plug was getting juice. Then he feign ignorance and ask "What the Hell is wrong with you?" Some may think that cruel, personally, I think having your brother or mother-in-law hold the plug sounds more humane.
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« Last post by Tony F on December 04, 2025, 02:36:01 AM »
Is it getting enough fuel? Are the filters on the fuel taps clear of rust etc?
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« Last post by michaell32 on December 04, 2025, 01:13:20 AM »
About the only things left are cam timing or valve float. I can think of a couple others but the symptoms would be slightly different.
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« Last post by n3303j on December 03, 2025, 11:56:18 PM »
What is the chance that something is floating at 6,500? Maybe a valve spring is broken and the valve doesn't fully close at the higher RPM?
Or your advance is not fully advancing?
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